LIKE with any Issey Miyake collection, our expectations to be introduced to new, contemporary and imaginative fabrics are high. Known for being a pioneer in the development of innovative materials, Miyake experiments with fabric manipulation to create structure and volume. Designed by Yoshiyuki Miyamae – head of womenswear at Issey Miyake – the AW18 collection at PFW, once again, showcased the best of technical materials.
All white looks kicked off the show, reflecting the winter weather outside, layer upon layer of textured fabrics in a starch white create a festive illusion. Instantly, our attention diverts to materials, with faux-fur and quilting set against the brand’s famed steam stretch fabric, pleated in hypnotic waves. The intensity of the pleating is amplified through movement and furthermore by placement of colour. Colour is introduced as if to emulate the change in season. White soon turned to black, with a later bloom of electric tones towards the collection’s finale.
Following the contours of the pleating, the colour placement allows us to understand the nature of the material, emphasising the dramatic shapes and graphic aesthetic of the collection. Garment silhouettes express the impressive pattern cutting that Issey Miyake is also famed for. Saleability of the collection varies due to the combination of avant-garde and accessible garment types. Turtleneck jumpers and cowl-neck dresses touch on a commercial desirability, whereas oversized ruffling and abstracted headwear demand artistic appraisal.
by Todd Burns