AN EXHIBITION of feminine intimacy took place at the Royal Academy of Arts this weekend, as Simon Rocha explored themes of privacy, security and the female form at her 2019 Autumn Winter show. The hallowed halls of the famous art institution featured as a majestic backdrop for Rocha’s romantic inquiries into feminine eroticism, a delicate dance between women owning their own sexuality rather than being admired as a mere objects of desire. A palette of tantalising red, delicately denuded pink and serene pale cerulean was interspersed with pieces of glittering black and gold, bringing an undeniably rich femininity to the collection.
Rocha’s famously effeminate silhouettes received a masculine edit, manoeuvred by phallic shapes to create pieces with an inherent connection to the human body. Inspired by the fabric works of Louise Bourgeois — a French-American artist who crafted tapestries from her own clothes — Rocha harnessed the intimacy of female undergarments and the power they give to the one who is attired, and the intimacy experienced by the beholder.
Underwear became outerwear, as trench coats featured panels crafted from nude organza, revealing the layers of fabric beneath. Dresses featured pockets that displayed the hand within, glimpsed between the sheer pattern composed of glittering black squares. Belted jackets were crafted from the intimate materials of satin and silk, ruched and pleated as if adorning the finest lingerie. Sleeves and skirts were sheer, leaving the models limbs exposed yet also coyly concealed.
Accessories have always been the crowning jewel when viewing Rocha’s collections, with sparkling barrettes, twinkling tiaras and pendulous earrings stealing the show. For her AW19 collection, this is certainly no exception. A diadem and earrings of ruby red matched the accents of the same colour that featured on the bodice of a nude organza dress, as well as silken red pumps.
Hairpins — items that are particularly au courant this season — adorn the locks of almost every model, including actress and director Chloë Sevigny, writer and director Lily Cole, artist Conie Vallese, film maker Clara Cullen and singer Evangeline Lin and model Jeny Howorth all inspiring women chosen by Rocha for their incredible and diverse talents. Each twinkling barrette perches like a halo above the pieces of Rocha’s collection, a delectable accompaniment to each dress, jacket and suit. Masculine boots were heavily laced and crafted from patent black, metallic silver gold or the same titillating palette of red and pink featured throughout the collection.
Rocha’s consideration of female privacy resulted in a celebration of the female form and exhibited women who were firmly in control of their sensuality and power, proving that security in self comes from a confidence that is inherently skin deep – even when that skin peeps through flirty fabrics.
by Lucy May McCracken