FOR his autumn winter 2024 Ferrari collection, Creative Director Rocco Iannone chose to narrate the body, a concept that holds significant depth, particularly within the realm of fashion in which tailoring and fit play pivotal roles. This narrative, however, takes on a unique perspective under the Ferrari brand, where the body is likened to a machine.
Iannone recognises Ferrari’s expertise in crafting machines, but for AW24 he cleverly demonstrated his mastery in creating a casing to the human variation, which can move, grow in strength and define its presentation on its own terms – unlike any machine that Ferrari has had to deal with before.
Infused with the iconic Ferrari red hue, the monochromatic ensembles showcased a rich variety of textures, highlighting the adaptability of the shade when applied to both structured and fluid designs. The vibrant red was applied to not only symbolise passion, emotion, and desire, but also to serve as a poignant reminder of the vitality and energy that sustains our very being.
Shearling race gloves, titanium eyewear and organically moulded chunky metal jewellery (exhaust pipe fashion?) was a nod to the broad automotive narrative. The sporty driving shoe is metamorphosed, first as a ballerina pump in crinkled patent leather and then a décolleté, an ankle boot, and a cuissard boot.Â
These are clothes for a distinct customer base of thrill seekers.
But the true triumph of the collection was the way in which Iannone grasped materials that could catch the light and build movement as the models graced the runway. Draped satin surfaces, ethereal and reflective organza created with peach thread were examples of this. Silk was woven with metal to create couture quality dresses that offered gradient hues so captivating that many in the audience actually lifted their head from their phones to enjoy the mastery.
With the show enclosed by sleek black patent curtains, and with the ambiance set by two harpists playing softly against a techno backing track, the broad sensuality and allure of the garments was undeniable.
by Lily Rimmer