ASPIRING to be a place you enter in the afternoon and don’t leave until the early hours, MA/NA is the new kid on the block – the block being Mayfair, and the kids being high-end Japanese dining restaurants.
The mystery starts with the name itself: a fusion of two words – ma, the space between moments, capturing a feeling English language has no name for, and na, the magnetic energy that fills a room. With those words as the restaurant’s guiding philosophy, I walk in intrigued about what the evening will entail.
MA/NA Interior
Despite the early afternoon, the space is dark and moody; mystery and promise of something bigger hang in the air. The décor nods to Tokyo’s 1980s glamour – atmospheric amber lighting, plush brown furnishings, dark wood panelling. Bold 3D artworks sweep across the walls in mesmerising swirls, bonsai trees curl around the tables, and in the main lobby a dragon-shaped banquette weaves through the room, inviting guests for a quick pitstop – and who am I to refuse a drink before heading down to the main dining room?
The atmosphere in the venue is electric. Tables of friends laugh joyfully, couples lean into intimate first-date conversations, and the hum of voices is folded into the music – present, but never overpowering, so I can still hear my friend across the table. Everyone seems relaxed despite the rather steep price tag, and it might be because MA/NA doesn’t feel stuffy or showy like some of Mayfair’s more dated institutions; it seems genuine in its promise – great food and drink that carry you through into a late-night dance, without the hassle of needing to seek out your next destination.
MA/NA Interior
The cocktail list comes with a quadrant map, a genius aid that makes choosing far easier once you know what you’re after. I land somewhere between refreshing and fruity, and a lychee martini arrives at the table in an elaborate box, the line between theatre and dining blurring as curious heads turn to watch.
We study the menu as we work through a bowl of salted edamame. The first section is devoted to small sharing plates – all Japanese staples, with seafood as the clear star: tiger prawns in a variety of ways, bluefin tuna, hamachi (yellowtail) or there is wagyu carpaccio as well as some vegetarian options including mushroom gyoza. A pleasant surprise: every dish on the menu is gluten-free – a thoughtful touch that’s rare to find at this level of Japanese dining.
My favourite is the o-toro (tuna) tartare, served atop a tower of fresh avocado and crowned with fish roe, which I spoon onto rice crackers – the textures playing off each other, mixing the softness of the fish and the crispness of its vessel. The shrimp tempura, served with wasabi mayonnaise, is simple yet so flavourful that like the other dishes, disappears instantly as we fight over the last bites.
MA/NA Starter
Next we move onto a selection of sushi and robata dishes, every single plate arriving at our table blooming with colour and creatively garnished. The ingredients are simple, but of great quality and even the hosomaki I usually stray away from, leaves a lasting impression.
But it’s the black cod, from the larger plates, that stops our conversation at the table. Flaking apart with the gentlest press of a chopstick, the miso glaze caramelised into a delicate coat of sweetness. It’s served with truffle fried rice – a combination I didn’t know I needed before, an ideal solution to soak up every last bit of the glaze leaving our plate perfectly clean by the time a waiter comes to collect it.
MA/NA
To omit the dessert would be a crime so we opt for sharing a chocolate fondant – a rich and indulgent explosion of dark chocolate, cut by the sharp coldness of a scoop of wasabi ice cream. The whole experience feels like MA/NA’s philosophy itself: hidden somewhere in between the moments, the best part of it lies in the things words can’t quite capture. As we finish, we exchange a look of mischief lured by the sound of the music – the possibility of a late-night dance served to us just a short walk upstairs.
by Olga Petrusewicz
To book visit here
30 Upper Grosvenor St, W1K 7PH