Designed to elevate wardrobe classics, modularity and functionality reign supreme in the brand’s Spring outing.
Versatility isn’t a word that has passed many lips this season, but it was a du-jour element glimpsed within the creative approaches of the Copenhagen collections—Filippa K included.
Here, the brand’s Swedish masculine vein–boxy, loose neutral jackets and hourglass blazers, oversized trenches, and fuss-free jerseys like those favoured by the Danish counterparts—shared the lineup with rounder, softer shapes, like an oversized tuxedo shirt in steel blue and white organic cotton poplin, wide denim workwear-inspired shorts in a mid blue wash, and a shoulder bag teamed with square toe pumps.
Standouts on the male side of the equation included a cropped blouson zip jacket and long straight tailored trousers, both in sand beige heavy organic cotton twill. Worn over a white organic cotton tuxedo shirt and square-toe pumps handcrafted from soft black leather, there was a seamlessly practical vein that fell somewhere in the middle.
Sometimes the lineup’s seasonal message became a little fuzzy. Unwieldy layers (bomber jackets placed over micro shirts in dark hues; silky gowns worn over longline trousers) obscured the clarity of the clean, precise edge of the brand’s layering.
Worthy of note, one shall find lighter silhouettes that are presented throughout the range, comprising a vast range of shorts teamed with jackets, modern denim fits, and a fresh take on the house’s signature sharp, well-cut tailoring. On similar territory, light textures and washes take on a neutral colour palette. For commuting and leisure, casual pieces such as jersey layers, white jeans and summer knits express a lived-in practicality.
The only trouble here is that Filippa K appears to have got stuck in its groove. Much of the ground it’s covering has already been explored by Scandinavia’s first-generation crafts-makers. If the brand continues drawing attention in a competitive world, it has to start breaking free from its habits.
by Chidozie Obasi