COPENHAGEN, DENMARK — The sun’s rays may not, at first thought, set most creative directors’ hearts aflutter. But inspirations such as joy and soulful optimism underscore By Malene Birger Creative Director Emilie Martinsen-Kønigsfeldt and Head of Design Sydney Roark’s knack for marrying airy offerings with lean, timeless elegance.
Spring found the creative duo riffing on essentials of different sorts, from those aforementioned classics to fabrications in light fibres, which the design directors stumbled upon while researching winter’s depths, which, cyclically, give way to warmth and light.
“The SS27 collection, titled Halcyon, signifies a new chapter for By Malene Birger while also looking back at the rich heritage of the brand,” Martinsen-Kønigsfeldt and Roark shared with GLASS in a preview. “One of the most important things for a brand right now is to be authentic and true to its own message. There are so many brands and constant shifts in trends, but we want our customer to come into the store and find a sense of consistency while also discovering something unexpected that inspires her.”
The collection follows the arc of a day, from dawn to dusk, through both the colour palette and the different looks created for those moments. “There is a balance between more structured and polished pieces and something softer, looser, and more fluid,” they reflect.
“In the Scandinavian market, quality, function, and longevity are elements that continue to be highly valued. At the same time, we still think fashion needs to spark an emotional response and a sense of desire. That feels especially important right now as customers are becoming more thoughtful about what they choose to bring into their wardrobes. Looking ahead, we wish to continue building on what has always made By Malene Birger distinctive while introducing new ideas that feel natural, relevant, and inspiring.”
Consistency is a key element of the brand’s line-ups and broader offering from season to season; hallmarks like its sculpted toppers tie an evolving body of work neatly together. Chances are that customers can make room in their wardrobes for another outerwear piece, with endless styling possibilities that make it a no-brainer investment for the long haul.
All in all, many of these shapes were familiar territory for Martinsen-Kønigsfeldt and Roark: the boxy tops, the midi, tapered shirtdresses—it was the materials they mixed up. Cotton has always been a standby, but here they introduced rich lace and dense, sharp embellishments. The clothes felt urgent, elegant, and wholly wearable—the kind of pieces women are sure to connect with, whether they know the label’s vision or not.
by Chidozie Obasi