COPENHAGEN, DENMARK — MKDT Studio’s Caroline Engelgaar knows well that, where brands are concerned, consistency—with a subtle dash of novelty—is key. And so, while subtle changes are traceable in her clothes from season to season, the vernacular stays the same: minimalist, but with a good dose of the current fuss-free aesthetic by way of Scandi chic.
Spring/ Summer 2027 fit the bill, but Engelgaar upped the ante when it came to artful utility. A standout look was a billowing, off-white two-piece with dimensional embellishments suspended across its surface. Elsewhere, gauzy separates added interest (and subtle functionality) to the outing. Also new this season were feathered gowns rendered in gradients of black and white.
“Our SS27 collection, The Dark Light of Summer, draws inspiration from two Danish artists: painter Vilhelm Hammershøi and photographer Kirsten Klein,” Engelgaar tells GLASS. “The collection brings their contrasting worlds together, placing the hush of the home alongside the wildness of what waits outside. This duality also reflects the contrasts within women’s lives—city and countryside, structure and softness, the rush of everyday life and the calm of the weekend. Together, these contrasts form a homage to the ever-transforming nature of women and the many worlds they move between.
“In today’s fashion climate, our focus remains on building a wardrobe rather than responding to trends. We design for women in motion, with considered pieces that move from Monday to Sunday and are made to remain in her wardrobe for years. Looking ahead, we hope to keep evolving our core categories while creating the everyday wow that defines MKDT Studio.”
But creativity aside, these are the kind of times when one needs to push harder and approach things with greater intention. Sales Director Sibilla Fot concurs. “We bring the same care to how we do business as we do to developing a collection because, alongside a strong collection and a consistent brand, we have to remember that people—and retailers especially—are looking for connection and care, for brands that genuinely understand and support them, not just sell to them,” she says.
“Our collections are built around a timeless, everyday wow, and that’s exactly what makes them work at retail: pieces that feel special the moment you put them on, yet easy enough to live in every day.”
Fot sees increasing interest from international key players and believes there’s real room for growth for brands with a precise, clear DNA that see people and businesses beyond the numbers. “Commercially, we’re very excited about our international expansion, particularly in Asia and the US, where we’ve just signed with a distributor—an exciting new chapter for the brand. Copenhagen Fashion Week is central to us, not only creatively but from a business perspective too: it’s our stage to meet buyers and industry friends and share our world and our heritage,” she concludes.
On the whole, the brand’s brand of toughened-up minimalism affords it a degree of universality, making this feel like a definitive step forward for the label.
by Chidozie Obasi
Runway images by James Cochrane