COPENHAGEN, DENMARK — Oh, the things you do for the love of fashion. Not even the wildest downpour could ground an event on the second day of Copenhagen shows to a halt, where editors and insiders were left stranded amid a vast lawn for a good chunk of time in the lead up to a…show. Anyway, let’s get back to the clothes.
In a season that has seen designers embracing a sweeping take on the quotidian, there’s nothing like a well-deployed reference to really get the pulse racing, which Julie and Marie Skall, founders and Creative Directors of Skall Studio, know a thing or two about.
Past seasons have found them turning out homages to Scandi cool in a way that’s exponentially smarter than some of their peers—and more sophisticated with each new collection, too. To wit: Fall saw the creative duo making want-it-now tweaks to an outing formed by cult classics. The tweaks featured poised combinations that proved compelling and practical in equal measure.
In Spring/Summer 2027, inspirations derive from Musée La Piscine in Roubaix, northern France. The design equation yielded a deft balance of soft utilitarian and polish. The designers harnessed the inherently chic qualities of the square-shaped neck, and with them elevated simple volumes to breezy heights with tons of commercial appeal.
“We see an industry undergoing a major transformation,” the designers told GLASS in a preview. “On one side, many brands are trying to hold on to the way they have always done things, driven by the pursuit of constant financial growth at any cost. On the other side, we see more and more brands slowing down, putting tradition and craftsmanship at the forefront, and placing greater emphasis on stability in an ever-changing world. Our hope for the future is that more brands will slow down and produce fewer clothes, but better clothes. We hope they will take greater pride in creating truly thoughtful design and making it last longer,” they reflect.
Some of the standouts here were a grouping of pieces in dusty greens and earthy brown, in different shapes and sizes. Those elements are attracting much attention this season. The girls who wear Skall Studio’s take on it will likely see even more.
by Chidozie Obasi
Runway images by James Cochrane