MARIA Grazia Chiuri went through the archives of the French maison Dior and took her inspiration from a Marc Bohan dress with distinct geometric print as a starting point of her fall 2019 collection. The dress in question was designed for Françoise Hardy by Sonia Delaunay. The latter being a French artist who lived in the 20th century, known for her use of strong colour and geometric shapes. Her work ranged from painting, transitioning into fabrics and finally clothing. Clear references to said dress can be found in the geometric prints and intricate artisanal detail.
Dior Fall 2019 look
Yet Sonia Delaunay wasn’t the only inspirational woman sparking inspiration, work by Anni Albers – renowned for her artistic weaving – along with images of Diana Vreeland, Ballet dancers performing in Igor Stravinsky’s Rite of Spring and concluding the moodboard was the book cover of The Subersiver Stitch: Embroidery and the Making of the Feminine by the feminist art historian Rozsika Parker.
Dior fall 2019 look
Dior Fall 2019 look
Referencing all these different sources of inspiration in her 2019 Fall collection resulted in a warm toned collection made with meticulous care and eye for detail. Intricate geometric lace adorns the bottom of mid-calf length A-line pleated skirts, subversive stitching and weaving techniques are celebrated on T-shirts and oversized coats. Skirts are crocheted to perfection, showing off all the hours of immaculate craftsmanship went into the designs of these garments. Complex embroideries add finishing touches to the looks.
Dior fall 2019 look
Dior fall 2019 look
All these practices and techniques are, according to Chiuri, a way for women to make their voices heard and build their own identities. Resulting in a collection with meticulous details, and walks the line of conformity and subversion.
Dior Fall 2019 look
by Lupe Baeyens