BACKSTAGE at LFW, a rollercoaster of emotions — stress, fear, anxiety, apprehension are at large … It can be disastrous and messy and hectic to try to walk through, let alone photograph. Glass, however, loves the idea that the best fashion photographs can emerge from a space that is actually quite unglamorous. This concept has been grasping the attention of fashion photographers for years, and although claimed by many to be a “dead art”, backstage photography is actually on the rise, with more photographers experimenting with traditional forms of photography within this space.
Fashion and editorial photographer Matt Leeves may be more at home in a studio than backstage at LFW, but his conceptual approach to photography oscillates the realms of fashion and fine-art, making this an organic transition to the backstage. His exposed, raw style photography style also perfectly captures the mood of the backstage, as he takes to four shows; Bosideng, IA, Underage and Edeline Lee.
Bosideng AW20
For Autumn Winter 2020, Shanghai-based brand Bosideng made their first appearance on the London Fashion Week schedule, with a collection that celebrated their home country. Models in this season’s down jackets and rain-macs had Chinese flags stuck to their cheeks and in their hands.
Bosideng AW20. Photograph: Matt Leeves
Bosideng AW20. Photograph: Matt Leeves
Bosideng AW20. Photograph: Matt Leeves
Bosideng AW20. Photograph: Matt Leeves
Bosideng AW20. Photograph: Matt Leeves
Bosideng AW20. Photograph: Matt Leeves
Edeline Lee AW20
Held in the Apollo Theatre in London’s West End, Edeline Lee’s AW20 presentation looked to the femme fatale for inspiration. Brought to life with a voiceover of readings from feminist literature, Lee presented classic day dresses and suiting in block colour.
Edeline Lee AW20.Photograph: Matt Leeves
Edeline Lee AW20. Photograph: Matt Leeves
Edeline Lee AW20. Photograph: Matt Leeves
Edeline Lee AW20. Photograph: Matt Leeves
IA AW20
Fashion Scout’s, IA London, married fine art and fashion for AW20, with a collection that incorporated original artworks, by founder Ira Iceberg, hand painted digitally onto fabric. These unique garments were styled with equally avant-garde backcombed hair.
IA AW20. Photograph: Matt Leeves
IA AW20. Photograph: Matt Leeves
IA AW20. Photograph: Matt Leeves
IA AW20. Photograph: Matt Leeves
IA AW20. Photograph: Matt Leeves
Underage AW20
Founded by Central Saint Martins textile design graduate, Ying Shen, for AW20 UNDERAGE Studios played with the idea of futuristic time travel. Shen presented a collection dominated by digital printing and up-cycling, pre-existing garments were deconstructed and reworked as a patchwork textile which featured throughout.
Underage AW20. Photograph: Matt Leeves
Underage AW20. Photograph: Matt Leeves
Underage AW20. Photograph: Matt Leeves
Underage AW20. Photograph: Matt Leeves
Underage AW20. Photograph: Matt Leeves
by Emma Hart
Images: Matt Leeves