ANYTHING but subtle, Halpern’s latest AW18 collection at LFW was a psychedelic mix of sequinned animal print and exaggerated silhouettes. Set among translucent pink plastic and graffiti-clad walls, as the first outfit made its debut, a metallic copper and silver jumpsuit, constructed with asymmetric draping, it was clear that material and colours would be the collections backbone.
As the collection continues, the vast range of inspirations that shaped influenced the designs begins to come clear. From the off, it is hard to ignore the overwhelming ‘80s aesthetic. Ruffled draping and oversized shoulders are synonymous with celebrated trends of the time, constructed using flamboyant materials such as sheened silks and embellished prints to further amplify the exaggerated inspiration. There are suggested influences from other eras contributing to the overall style portrayed by Halpern, as the clashing materials and jumpsuits could be associated with early ‘70s glam rock whereas the micro sunglasses that completed the looks closely resemble those popular in the late ‘90s.
Halpern’s attention to garment silhouette is not pushed aside by the dominant materials, as advanced pattern cutting techniques are enhanced with the bold colours and print. Expertly draped sleeves and dresses are a familiar sight as the collection draws to close, as is the adventurous use of fabric manipulation. Halpern’s modern dress cuts and distorted tailoring allows the collection to be successful in a contemporary context, and not get lost in the theme.
by Todd Burns