THIS SEASON is all about rebirth. It is clear that designers are awakening into a new world, some are taking the roaring twenties approach fuelled with optimism and hope, while others are more realistic taking the pragmatic perspective to fashion – either way, there is tension.
For Jil Sander’s SS22 collection, creative directors Lucie and Luke Meier dissected this tension looking at femininity against masculinity, and vulnerability with strength to create looks that find the equilibrium between the two.
Power is found in the dimensions the duo are playing with as dimensions are increased and yet the material is lightweight perfecting the optical illusion. Changing with each look, smocking, cording and padding add to the texture the designers are experimenting with while the colour palette remains neutral.
Hyper-modern tailoring signals to the overall change in narrative surrounding aesthetics, with the less-is-more Scandinavian taste shining through. Square, masculine shouldering, long trousers and printed knitwear come together to to create strong looks but are equally as powerful as separates.
The collection is sharp and sophisticated, there is no added extravagance nor is there excess of anything, together the Meiers have triumphantly returned to the runway with clothing that you see and immediately want to wear.
It is clothing for everyday and every night. Their taste is effortlessly exquisite. And, if this is what tension looks like, then give me all of it.
by Imogen Clark