MILAN, ITALY — Antonio Marras’ show notes announced that the designer yearned to celebrate its Spring outing by recalling the nuptials between Antiochus and Hippolyta, two prominent figures rooted in Sardinian culture and Greek mythology. The designer celebrated this act by presenting a collection—ending in a performance—that tells the story of the day after nighttime, when clothes from a celebratory moment are still worn, caress the skin and become tangled in hair, all while abstaining from change.
Fabric experimentation took centre stage, too, starting from the abstract notions of memory, history and materiality—adding elements of contrast and playfulness to the lineup: lace, opulent fabrics and sculptural details were all part of the style equation, blending touches of simplicity with a quasi-couture sensitivity.
Marras’ main strength has always been his self-assured sense of direction, and this collection brought a sort of newness if one looked anew. Elsewhere, motifs like stripes, checks and a reimagined iteration of camouflage appear across the surfaces, alongside painterly flowers that seem to have been left on the garments by the work of a hand, like a trace or stain of colour.
What’s more, inlays featuring embroidery, crystal embellishments and tactile patches run across the plethora of dresses, accessories and footwear, creating a feel of continuity between the body and everything enveloping it. However, the lightness of silk, chiffon, organza, tulle and macramé met the structure of fabrics like cool wool, poplin, leather, brocades, jacquards and sequins. Transparency and fluidity blended with a more tailored edge, while knitwear enveloped the body and denim had an everyday, earthy quality, ditching its functional meaning.
All in all, if Marras’ clothes can occasionally seem a little studied, bordering on heavy, this season he joined the light brigade with offerings and dresses that either bounced or flowed. Put those silhouettes together with surface embellishments, and you have yourself a look that might just drive men (or aficionados) mad. The Italian way.
by Chidozie Obasi