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MFW SS27: Moschino


MILAN, ITALY — Moschino has always had its finger on what’s happening in the streets. This season is no exception. The new Spring/ Summer 2027 lineup and the accompanying staging were inspired by searching for beauty on your daily commute, looking between cultures and subcultures.

Working off that theme, the brand’s newly appointed chief creative officers, Simone Rizzo and Loris Messina, delivered offerings ranging from a yellow peplum skirt with chrome-coloured lining, paired with a skin-tight blouse and a bold pair of sunnies. Easy breezy kits and trousers hugged the body and were rendered in radiant tan and crimson shades. Elsewhere, the offerings stayed close to the streetwise mood, with cosy separates, billowing and sharply-cut jackets, elongated shirting, and a perfectly slouchy slew of skirts with a light iridescent sheen.

“The idea was that of walking in the street like you’re in another world, and you don’t care about anything,” Rizzo and Messina told reporters backstage after the show. “But also the clothes belonging to real people; choosing them, you can be whoever you want.” These people, according to the duo, “seemingly landed from Mars, and they perfectly matched with everyone else.”

For them, it was super important that Moschino could become a cultural speaker again, and they want to talk about Milanese culture. “These people are friends, such as DJs and producers, artists or lawyers.” Rizzo and Messina think that the past was special, but now, talking about culture is quite different. “We don’t need something on a T-shirt, and we have a different language,” they said. “We think that creating this show, which is not a performance, it’s something more and it’s our way of talking about slogans.”

There’s tons of content inside this collection, but there’s no actual backstory. “We have the same urgency in terms of creativity and breaking walls, but it’s 2026,” they said. “It’s a matter of embodiment and asking what the body means, as there are thousands of bodies there and we don’t want to stereotype; in fact, we don’t care about stereotypes in general, nor if the visual is clear.” There were no real gimmicks. “Sometimes with Moschino, there’s a joke that keeps going on and on, but we don’t know why Moschino becomes a joke, to be honest: For us, Moschino was something super intelligent.”

On the inspiration? “Creating two layers, which is not easy. It’s quite difficult, but let’s say we are very Darwinian in a sense: We like the idea that if you get it, you get it,” they reflect. “We don’t want to label things anymore, as we think it’s important that everyone interprets a performance of this kind in a personal way, like a drawing: when you meet an artist, you understand exactly what he wants to say,” they conclude. So how does a viewer get the message? “We’ll never give you a message again, because there are too many.” Escapist, carefree thinking? Maybe.

by Chidozie Obasi

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