MILAN, ITALY — Brioni has never espoused a maximalist aesthetic, yet this latest lineup plunged further into minimalism. The goal this season in removing a button here or a detail there was to privilege form over function, as in, to permit the construction of a jacket or the closure of a pant to be noticeable without unnecessary distractions. But a closer look made it clear that the clothes haven’t done away with surface details.
Elevating the brand’s bespoke craftsmanship to new levels of exclusivity, the label has introduced Maestria, which expands the seasonal collections by offering customers greater personalisation, spurring individual style and distinction through a broad range of options across all categories, from shirts and knitwear to footwear and small leather goods. At the heart of this immersive and engaging journey lies a dual approach.
The first is Brioni’s renowned “Su Misura” tailoring, offering customisation within established guidelines, while the second embraces an Alta Sartoria approach that becomes the ultimate beacon of individuality and personal artistry. In addition to fabrics, clients can choose from a range of details, including buttons, linings, combinations, and technical specifications.
The goal is to present the Brioni universe as the pinnacle of refinement, allowing customers to participate in the creative process and enjoy fully dedicated, high-end service. Spring sees the brand revisiting its core pillars of colour and fabric innovation, with the highest-grade quality textiles and the perfect balance of Roman couture heritage and modern playfulness.
Standouts include shirt-collared blouses in suede, enriched with alligator-effect nubuck details, and the Vagabond overshirt, a mix of cashmere softness and suede suppleness, providing the perfect marriage between structure and ease. Utility and elegance blend into the unlined Sahariana jacket in wool-and-linen herringbone over a striped shirt, while the Travel Jacket in lightweight wool Hopsack with alligator-print nubuck details offers plenty of style mileage.
by Chidozie Obasi