IN recent seasons Versace’s menswear has come to reflect less the Euroflash Adonis – that was the apple of Donatella’s eye – and rather reflected the times and tastes of the brand’s widened target markets. For AW17 the collection started with a bruised colour palette that fit this mood, befitting models with greasy locks slicked forward to partly conceal brooding expressions. Head to toe in uniformed darkness, some even covering every limb with oily black leather gloves, utilitarian outerwear was the order of the day. Belted securely around the waist forcing each ensemble to hug the male form in all the right places, Donatella still managed to get a little bit of superhero worship in.
Things heated up further with red leather trousers and trenches and, then, a few more explosive flecks of crimson. Plaid shirts downplayed any daring statements however, keeping it casual as the collection began to carry on the ironic sportswear-cum-Soviet chic trend taking over runways. Trainers were therefore awkwardly bulky and materials had a crass opulence to them that almost qualified some garments as ski attire.
These trendy triumphs were at their most ascendent in the form of Michelin-man-like puffa jackets, which have become adored by womenswear and menswear alike in the past couple of seasons. Some on-brand branding snuck in right at the end, with a vertical VERSACE scaling the calf of a leather trouser and some Italianate religious iconography symmetrically emblazoned on blazers, because this is Versace. It was a welcome inclusion as always but not actually that necessary as this was a collection which put Versace confidently and cohesively on trend.
by Livia Feltham
Images courtesy of Versace