Even the bruised, battered and scarred faces of Yamamoto’s brooding men didn’t deflect any attention away from the mastery of his oily black tailoring and for any designer, that is quite a feat. This season in the fashion capital that embraces him like no other, Yohji Yamamoto, the one and only designer of designer of distressed duds, presented his archetypical asymmetrical cuts, crisp tattered shirts and rolled up slacks planted defiantly with militant boots.
As the collection progressed nothing was noticeably out of the ordinary, suits were split in two, undecided between jean and dusty cotton, whilst other layering occurred with outerwear more equipped for extreme weather conditions. Clothing created exclusively for the more outlandish global-warming induced climates have been in demand this season and when it comes to Yamamoto, this is a territory he feels comfortable in. The long coat, also a popular staple this season, was out in full force and looked suitably unconventional for the anti-establishment set, broken down in an ode to culture at its lowest ebb.
Yohji did however end the show with a selection of decoratively printed suits in mock velvet that added some scope to the “catastrophe” aesthetic he owns so superlatively. This made for a nice finale to a show that, in all honesty, we were expecting, but still relished nonetheless.
by Liam Feltham
Images courtesy of Style.com