This season in Paris Sarah Burton’s reminiscent recollection of a very McQueen-ian Victorian romance was a safe bet to ensure another agreeable collection. For all the admittedly glorious grandiose touches, isn’t it a little too safe though, certainly for the brand that once summoned up hellfire from the deepest darkest depths of the fashioned body to make avant-garde chic, well, chic. Either way, Burton’s softer touch was just as enticing as McQueen’s own.
Miss Havisham catwalk incarnate, this was a collection that couldn’t get past the powdered wigs and pallid makeup, though this set up a dark contrast with the more sensual leather looks and lace dresses with their peekaboo flashes of the midriff and surrounding area. This uniquely feminine approach to flirtatious dressing is undoubtedly something that Burton revels in at the helm of a house which demands a little taunting and teasing. For starters, that cascading gown of flowing blood-red lace was truly something else. All the rest of the lace and blooming bouquet prints, frothy though they may have been, were wonderfully pieced together too but could have used a little more venom in their tenue to really make for some stand-out pieces.
Burton has delivered a successfully marketable collection nevertheless, and as the world now looks to London’s Victoria and Albert Museum with Savage Beauty fast approaching, we can’t think of any better way for Burton to expand his legacy.
by Liam Feltham
Images courtesy of Style.com