THE inspiration behind Nicolas Ghesquière’s AW17 collection for Louis Vuitton was all about blurring the lines and mixing up opposites. Blending the urban with the countryside and folklore, heritage with the future and the feminine with the masculine. And it was all set in the heart of Louvre, the Cour Marly, where all these influences come together — under one roof.
This blending was apparent from the very first look of pale yellow satin slip worn with a sharp structured black leather coat and heavy “leggings” boots with racing stripes. The racing theme was carried out throughout the show as figure-hugging jersey or leather racing jackets were presented, in some cases with matching trousers in electric blue and a big fur fit for a cave woman — another example of mixing the opposites. Matching that look, the models were also make-up free and their hair loose and wild.
The satin slips were matched with other soft and “girly” looks, such as see-through dresses with rows of ruffles and patchwork lace dresses, a technique also seen on tops later on.
Suits, or tailored coats, worn with trousers in black or dark brown were belted at the waist to give the looks a more feminine vibe. The waist belt was a staple in the collection and used throughout. To contrast, the urban cool suits were jackets with shearling collars and jumpers with miniskirts clearly referencing the countryside.
So was an extensive use of tweed on dresses, mini skirts and jackets. But again tweed is a crossover of countryside and luxury since Coco Chanel took a liking in the material.
by Sara Hesikova
Images courtesy of Louis Vuitton