IN TRUE Yohji Yamamoto style, he presented another all-black collection for PFW AW18. Taking inspiration from the cubist art movement for silhouettes, the collection pays homage to renowned couturier and personal friend of Yamamoto, Azzedine Alaïa following his death in November. Similar to Yamamoto, Alaïa’s fashion aesthetic incorporated an abundance of black, so it’s no surprise that this collection would follow suit.
Intense pattern cutting and expert fabric draping is the reasoning behind the collection’s success. Although we expected nothing less, as his impressive construction continues to amaze us. Abstracted folding and pleating allows us to understand the cubist influence. Due to the pattern cutting and multiple layering, angular shapes visible within the creases of the fabric resembles the artistic deconstruction seen within cubist art.
Amplifying the cubist inspiration, dramatic styling choices reflect portrait paintings by artists – such as Pablo Picasso – practising the movement. Windswept hair, illustrative eye patches and graphic eyeliner disconnects the facial features and contributes further abstract shapes. The collections majority stays true to the all black colour scheme, with the only variation being dark tones of navy and brown – not forgetting the odd white path here and there. Complimenting the pleats and layers, soft leather allows a subtle sheen from the reflective light. Overall, a sense of emotion and respect radiates through the drama of the collection, a fitting homage to celebrate Azzedine Alaïa
by Todd Burns