PFW AW20: Celine

IF THERE is one thing that Paris Fashion Week has been demonstrating this season, it is the decisive return of bourgeois trends in the AW20 fashion looks – and Celine’s fashion show fit in very harmoniously within this narrative. This year, Celine’s creative director Hedi Slimane took on the theme of 1970s bourgeois fashion with a rock ‘n roll twist. By showcasing timeless yet very time-specific pieces and playing with nostalgia, Slimane decided to play it safe this year – a distinctive move, considering his previous Celine collections.

As ‘70s rock ‘n roll-reminiscent music filled the modern Parisian space, Slimane sent in his first models, which instantly transported the audience back into ‘70s Paris, LA or even London’s King’s Road. Mary Jane platforms, tweed ponchos, faux-fur jackets all bore a very cinematic flair, while the slightly dangerous looks of leather certainly had rebellious undertones.

Another centrepiece of Celine’s AW20 was embroidery, done entirely by hand. Embroidered vests and dresses added an element of bohemian fashion to the otherwise dominant retro-rock chic mood of the evening.

Velvet, which was featured in many other AW20 collections at Fashion Weeks, had its Renaissance moment at Celine fashion show. Shrunken velvet jackets with ruffled silk blouses and pussy-bowed shirts assuredly played their bourgeois part in Celine’s AW20.

Last night Celine presented a truly stunning collection, and although bourgeois, it was mostly practical and wearable – a quality, that not most fashion collections this week share. And yet, Slimane’s accentuation on the historically influential decade and cultural movement of rock ‘n roll was somehow anticipated and at times even monotonous. Nevertheless, his masterfully crafted pieces were very reminiscent of the old Celine, back when it still had the accents in its name. And the most exciting touch was the house’s long-awaited return to Celine Sulky, a historic horse and cart emblem that was born in 1966.

by Lexi Fadina


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