FOR his first debut AW20 show as creative director of Kenzo, Felipe Oliveira Baptista explored sustainable ready-to-wear looks suggestive of spirit and vitality yesterday in Paris. Well renowned for his innovative capsule collections and artistic vision, the Portuguese designer took over from design duo Carol Lim and Humberto Leon’s eight year long tenure.
Entitled Going Places, Baptista drew inspiration from the peripatetic lifestyle and spirit of the typical nomadic wanderer, with the primary intention of producing ‘clothes that are easy to live in”. Comprised of reversible coats, parkas and quilted jackets that double as sleeping bags, the AW20 collection embodied movement and freedom, while retaining signature components quintessential to Kenzo, such as flamboyant hues, fluid cuts and striking prints.
The French maison’s classic tiger emblem featured heavily across several looks, channelling influences from the late Portuguese artist Júlio Pomar to convey lucidity and mystique with imagery both defined and distorted. Muted tones of brown, grey and khaki served as the perfect primary base to complement sharp bursts of blue, red and orange, while camouflage print emphasised themes of naturalism and minimalism.
Baptista delivered a powerful first debut comprised of elegance, practicality and versatility, encouraging positivity “in times that we so insecure” with the fundamental intention of creating “clothing that adapts to our needs”. With its invigorating brand vision and modernised logo, Kenzo’s new chapter certainly promises an exciting story ahead.
by Cara Jenkins
Credits: Elizabeth Pantaleo for NOWFASHION