PFW AW23: Mame Kurogouchi

THE LATEST collection by Mame Kurogouchi is a stunning homage to the artistry and culture surrounding Japanese baskets. Designer Maiko Kurogouchi has masterfully blended traditional craftsmanship with modern design to create a collection that radiates elegance, strength, and stripped-back beauty.

The series takes its cues from the works of Rokansai Iizuka, and its regal tones, well-balanced shapes, and graceful lines all reflect the spirituality with which the artist sought out the beauty of bamboo in his travels. The collection’s sophisticated processes and one-of-a-kind fabrics yield a range of designs that do justice to the basket’s lines, shadows, and airy bamboo construction.

The garments in the collection are both delicate and robust; they capture the structure of the basket through the clever layering and interlacing of Raschel Jersey stripes and torchon lace. The fabric of the tops and skirts has been given a subtle sense of depth by the application of pleating techniques utilizing patterned paper. The ‘origami dyeing’ technique used on the alpaca-wool knitwear provides the collection with a carefree and buoyant beat.

Boldness and elegance are all on display in the collection’s reversible silk-cashmere coats, boleros, and delicately cut-out knitwear, all of which skillfully combines the highest quality materials with elegant tailoring and expert patternmaking. The colour scheme is organic, spanning from dark, earthy tones like browns and khakis to stark, modern ones like black and blue.

Bamboo earrings and bracelets are a crafty addition to the collection. Slim pumps and boots are available, as well as a collaboration with Hakimono Sekizuka that comprises leather zori with thin soles and leather tabi socks to update a classic style.

The AW23 Mame Kurogouchi collection is a beautiful fusion of past and present, making it a must-have for any fashion-forward individual looking to add a touch of sophistication and elegance to their wardrobe.

by Zlata Kryudor 

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