STRAIGHT out of the MoMA and onto the runway, Kenzo debut the third instalment of their La Collection Memento series during PFW. Taking inspiration from artwork by artist Henry Rousseau, also known as Le Douanier, similar colour schemes are adopted along with the predominant use of tapestry. Knitwear is a key feature in any Kenzo collection, with this collection being no exception. Cable knit, rib knit and argyle knit are just a few techniques used throughout.
Prints from The Dream, one of Rousseau’s most celebrated artworks, adorn much of the collection, with exploration of abstracting elements of the painting and featuring focal points. Lions, birds and Rousseau’s Polish mistress are just a few unusual depictions in the painting that have been translated into print. We are unable to ignore the playfulness of the collection, as bright colours and exotic animals appeal to the child in all of us. The addition of fur amplifies the playful aspect, adding texture to the animals adorning on the garments.
Sophistication comes in the form of relaxed silhouettes and ruffled detailing along with an abundance of tailored trousers and structured dresses. Stripes contribute a contemporary-graphic element, contradicting the traditional qualities of the tapestry. The collection drew to a close with two uniformed dresses, ruffled along seams and hems and followed by a knit column dress that promotes Kenzo’s talent.
by Todd Burns