EACH season since his creative director role at Mugler began, David Koma has continued in the tradition of the brand to give each collection it puts out a hook. Usually vaguely thematic – though curtailed to our modern more mediocre times in comparison to the full-scale extravaganzas Thierry put on at his peak in the mid-nineties – Koma is doing a satisfactory job at keeping the drama present. This season it was there in the resplendence of dazzling silver sequins, slashed to create dresses destined for the Mugler heroine.
Despite doing this because he knows this is what he has to do at the house, Koma did introduce some more commendable creations for SS17. Simplified dresses showed the designer to be relaxing into his role without losing his grip on the woman he is designing for. While she may not be the most shy-and-retiring type and as such averse to currents trends led by those types, there are still the clothes out there for her being made by designers like Koma who keep power dressing ahead of the curve. Despite not desperately dwelling on any sportswear swoops of sharp Mugler lines gave pieces an athletic energy that met with sure-fire sexiness in mini-dresses that should be incorporated into every wardrobe for a self-esteem boost.
The collection, all in cold, mechanical hues yet brightened up by shiny embellishment, ended on a night-time note. Tuxedo suits and gowns put all the effect on eager décolletages and dared to go as high as they could get on the thigh. These stunning designs intend to impact and along with the collection on the whole, shows a creative director who is maintaining an effective understanding of what’s best for the house.
by Livia Feltham
Images courtesy of Mugler