DEMNA Gvasalia likes to keep fashion interesting. This morning in Paris, the designer showcased his SS19 collection for Balenciaga – a logo mania outpour and more. Guests took a trip inside what visually appeared to be a tunnelled computer system, but it could have quite easily acted as Gvasalia’s mind. Why? Because since joining the house of Balenciaga in 2016, the designer has proven to remain a forward-thinking figure at the cutting edge of both technology and fashion. As his latest collection proves, that status still stands strong.
Upon entering the visually advanced tube setting, guests were greeted with screen-flowing slogans that read as software installation directions. Designed by Jon Rafman, there was an evident communication of the entrancing technological world that Generation-Z are so in tune with. So was advancement Demna’s inspiration? That answer would be yes, proven as models soon descended on the mirrored runway. Much like a scroll down your Instagram feed, the collection was a fatal attraction.
Typical of Gvasalia style, tailoring took a technological turn. Contemporary jackets and suits emerged, with sharp structured shoulders and an hourglass shape moulded to the waist. Materialisation of such striking pieces was diverse, from lucid black leather to popping pink velvet. A boxed silhouette stood strongly, bringing with it an enduring appeal of modernism.
But Balenciaga caters to more than just the suited and booted. Across the co-ed collection, cocktail dresses, silk wrapped gowns and oversized, asymmetric blouses were injected for women – retro denim wear, silk shirts and shearling sweaters for men. As for the details, logos topped standout garments. In particular, the closing look of the show: a generously proportioned dress (kind of blanket style) with a scattered set of Balenciaga’s in every space and every font (shoutout to comic sans – you’re on trend!).
Homage to the brand’s French history was to be found through eiffel tower symbols. They were plastered on turtleneck women’s dresses and straight-cut men’s suits, serving Demna’s dad-wear in particular the Parisian memo. Oh – and a deck of cards served as a running motif throughout. So the question naturally arose: what was Balenciaga betting on?
Success, no doubt. Earlier this year, it was revealed that the brand is booming with regards to revenue, proclaimed as the fastest growing house at Kering. So clearly, Demna’s tailoring of smart streetwear is thriving. We’ll put an assured bet on it, because his customers won’t be turning off anytime soon. The verdict for SS19: Gvasalia set out to prove that clothing is every bit as immersive (arguably more) as the tiny screens that consume our day-to-day lives. Spot the show on your Instagram feed, and you’ll be double tapping.
by Faye Fearon