PIERPAOLO Piccioli knows how to construct clothing that makes you gasp out loud. His vision for Valentino has long remained clear – generous proportions of material are used to create grand structures for grand women. It’s an impressive sight to behold, most particularly because he appears to disregard the casual expectations that come with composing a ready-to-wear collection. Yesterday in Paris, the designer unveiled his vision for SS19 – and honestly, dress after dress felt more like a dream after dream. This was Piccioli’s escape from the fashion capital, and all watching were on board his flight.
First stop? A rolling river of black, materialised across the opening 14 looks. Along the scene, their forms took on pretty much every structure one could envision. A shapely off the shoulder dresses, a slim floor length gown, a feather finished robe, a two piece leather ensemble – the list was endless, and admirers of the house were spoilt for choice. V for Valentino, or V for Valentine? The two terms were synonymous for SS19, as far as Picciolo was concerned. His offering of an escape was totally exuberant, and sartorially, catered to the loving kind. Cue the house’s romantic injection of red. It donned dresses which featured billowing bows and short balloon sleeves. The sky-high trip continued, taking a rainbow route through taffetas in shades of pink, magenta, orange and turquoise.
From just one observation, it was clear that this clothing was catered to the dreamers – up in the clouds and breathtakingly fashionable. To add to that vision, Piccioli took a provincial turn, too. Generously brimmed straw hats were styled atop his dresses of divinity and an array of ensembles which quickly called for a print proclamation. Feathers were finished on embellished dresses and shoes of the sandal and slider forms. A big question proposed: where these looks styled for street or suburb? Honestly, Valentino wasn’t specifying, which we kind of loved. As glamorous as the garments were, the ready-to-wear title deemed them tailored to any occasion. Bravo!
So the Valentino verdict: it looks as though Piccioli is striving to diminish that widespread separation between couture and ready-to-wear. It makes sense, given that the designer’s mindset is continually embracing escapism. But he doesn’t believe escapism to be an act of running away. Instead, it’s about acquiring self-freedom in any kind of setting. For the house of Valentino, liberty is at large any season – so it seems. And we’re most definitely in favour of it. Top tip for next season: style those elevated SS19 pieces over an emancipated sensibility, and you’ll be on the high-rise.
by Faye Fearon