DRIVEN by a desire to create a more accessible Celine, Hedi Slimane’s work has a distinctly youthful and slightly indie feel to it, and his SS20 collection for PFW was no different. The new era of Celine has long divided fans – on the one side die hard Phoebe Philo fanatics who loved the brand’s original sophistication, and on the other, Slimane’s followers who love his more down-to-earth designs. Whichever camp you side with, it’s hard to deny that Celine still dictates the wardrobe of the French “it girl”.
Double denim, knee-high boots and a palette of neutrals hark back to classic Celine style, but smoky eye makeup and aviator glasses ensured Slimane’s cool version of the brand remained. Casual looks, which featured generous helpings of denim and long bohemian style dresses were followed by glittering 1920s style evening-wear accompanied by velvet turbans.
Textures were built up to produce complex dimensions – fur, suede, leather, silk and denim mingled together forming interesting ensembles. Looks were luxurious but alternative.
Models wore perfume vials around their necks to mark the release of Celine’s new perfume line, and one of its scents, “Reptile” was sprayed in the air to create a multi layered sensory experience for the audience.The show was a polished performance and the SS20 collection proved Slimane still has much to reveal for the future of the French house.
by Alicia Pountney