BUILDING upon his love for individuality, French designer Jean Paul Gaultier’s haute couture SS18 show was a definite call for visual recognition. Known as someone who is inquisitive about everything and captivated by difference and diversity, Gaultier’s collection and stylistic expression did not disappoint. Set at the HQ Jean Paul Gaultier, the show paid homage to avant-garde French couturier Pierre Cardin and was heavily inspired by 1960s design.
Gaultier kept true to his signature look – garments were cinched in at the waist and shoulders were exaggerated. However this year saw the addition of new couture designs such as woven plastics and fabric manipulation peeping through on seam lines, jackets and boots. Such techniques were a nod to the collection’s optical illusion theme. In light of Christian Dior’s couture show a couple of days ago, the use of Op Art and illusion in this year’s Paris Couture collections suggests the debate on whether fashion can be considered as art is as pertinent as ever.
As the show continued, the emphasis on fringing became exceedingly apparent with hemline fringing eventually falling to the floor. As fringing became more dramatic so too did the use of geometric structure in the garments and hair. Juxtaposed textiles were intricately placed to create a spiral that cleverly tricked our minds into studying the entirety of the look from head to toe. Building upon this element of fantasy Jean Paul Gautier incorporated bold repetitive prints that looked 3-D to the human eye.
Pairing these garments with geometric-monochrome jewellery that moved in the wind to form different silhouettes strengthened the forward-thinking fun in the collection. When model Coco Rocha and her daughter danced down the runway in matching outfits Jean Paul Gautier was making an exciting statement – the time has come to step out of line.
by Lily Rimmer