MATERIALS stole the show at the spectacular Maison Margiela Artisanal Couture SS18 runway. Stealing the limelight was a colour-changing fabric. Put into action under the flash of a light, the rich-petrol grey transforms into an iridescent swirl of highlighter tones. Neon yellows, pinks and blues warp, showing the creases and pleats making up the garment. Equally, although showing folds and structure of the garment, the effect of the fabric creates a flat illusion conflicting with the other garments making up the outfit.
Once calmed from the shock of the Galliano’s material choice, attention diverts to garment cuts and styling. Layers of deconstructed ski jackets under stiff bodices demand attention in sickening greens and polka-dot prints. An essence of casual fashion is juxtaposed with sharp strokes of futurism. Trainers with avant-garde straps resemble ski boots, teamed with technical fabrics and metallic helmet hair radiate a sportswear influence.
Use of transparent vinyl is frequent, layered over trench coats or constructed into pullover anoraks is in keeping with the sporty feel. Trapped lace and lace trim print is often employed, tapping into the lingerie trend that that is emerging as couture week progresses. Supported with unhooked bras finishing outfits, the lace’s intricacy adds a delicate touch to what is a vivacious collection. Asian parasols and dripping paint headwear suggests the collection wouldn’t look too out of place roaming the streets of Harajuku.
by Todd Burns