THE phrase ‘Buy Less, Choose Well’ has continually risen in prominence as Vivienne Westwood’s words have reflected the change into a more sustainable perspective.
For AW22, the focus on quality over quantity is still cemented at the forefront of her mind. Reviving the title of her Gold Label AW01 collection, Wild Beauty, it seemed fitting to return to this idea in the Year of the Tiger – and in true Westwood style, what is more epic than referencing yourself?
Encapsulating the strength and courage that the Chinese characterise this animal with, Westwood noted this line in her collection notes – “Azure dragon in the east, white tiger in the west and in between an auspicious star guiding our affairs” – helping elevate the grandeur of this beast. Alluding to Henri Rousseau’s tiger painting in the National Gallery, AW22 is all about recalibrating the idea of this animal and reimagining it into something with some punk flare to it.
Obviously, the layers of influence didn’t quite end there. After looking at Matisse’s paintings of women, Westwood took to her own paintbrush to draw eyes, specifically the evil eye talisman.
Known to be a symbol of protection to ward against all evil, the British designer also delved into hell and witches having heard the folk tale regarding Peter Bruegel’s The Fight Between Carnival and Lent, where citizens ate fungus infused with LSD that made them mad – a fitting answer to needing an evil eye.
Penetrating a large picture for AW22 that balances strength and attitude with fine tailoring, exaggerated volumes and copious variations of undulating print reinforces the brilliance of Westwood.
Showing her collection via a lookbook digitally and attaching an index of where and how the material was sourced was very on brand, and also very sustainable. And in a world focused on who is the loudest, well Westwood has quite a roar.
by Imogen Clark