MILAN, ITALY — Since the passing of Mr. Armani last September, the newly appointed creative director, Dario Vitale – who is now at the helm of RTW at Emporio Armani and also, Giorgio Armani’s accessories line – will not make his debut until the forthcoming seasons.
For Spring/ Summer 2027, a design team was responsible for the collection, and one could sense that. There wasn’t quite a unifying theme tying together the gauzy separates, evening gowns, and blazers beyond the house’s signature essentials, but the tailoring’s breeziness and considered structural detailing made a compelling case for pieces that, in true Armani fashion, are designed to stand the test of time.
Emporio isn’t a collection that demands deep reinvention; rather, it thrives on the quiet exchange between form and function, delivering familiar classics with subtle twists. While Vitale’s touch might eventually bring a little more humour or wit to the house, the clothes themselves offered plenty to appreciate. There was nothing that felt out of place; instead, the collection demonstrated a confident understanding of the Emporio Armani vocabulary, with perhaps just a little more colour and playfulness left to explore.
The standouts ranged from linens and weightless silks to shirting fabrics, viscose, and jerseys, all used to construct fluid forms without sacrificing lightness. Elsewhere, jackets softened their structure or were crossed by panels and knots; trousers became airy and fluid, while knitwear pieces recalled the intimacy of underwear. Tailoring and transparency reigned supreme, appearing across jackets and small waistcoats, wide-leg trousers, and essential tops that moved effortlessly between menswear and womenswear.
Taken together, the collection felt like a thoughtful continuation of the house’s enduring codes: understated, versatile, and distinctly Armani, with enough subtle movement and textural interest to keep the familiar feeling fresh.
by Chidozie Obasi