Channelling an androgynous take on grunge fashion, Margiela introduced an air of casualness at PFW for SS15 and thrust it upon navy pinstripe suits. In a variety of styles, the staple suit was reinvented, from asymmetrical and cut off, to loose and unbuttoned. Opening with contrasting colours, peach and navy blue, Margiela’s collection focused on neutral shades juxtaposed against pattern.
Typical of SS fashion, there were many floral designs, from large daisies to ditzy print. Using patchwork, Margiela displayed colour against colour, pattern against pattern, which combined with uneven length skirts, added to the asymmetrical appearance.
With a hint of Oriental inspiration, Margiela’s use of black skinny belts laid out in bulk across a neutral palette was reminiscent of shodo – the Japanese art of calligraphy. The layers of material around the bodice and the use of light fabrics was also a nod to Asian design. Divagating from the original colours, Margiela sparse use of bolder tones such as hot pink and pigmented greens created added an exotic edge.
Structurally, the garments used layers to convey a multidimensional look. Folded, wrapped and tied the fabric leaned toward cover up as opposed to readymade garments. The use of several patterns gave the illusion of separate pieces which added to the busy appearance. Belts and ties clung to the waist while crop tops emphasised the silhouette.
Inspired by Oriental design, Margiela’s collection depicted subtle themes from the east which were contrasted against western garments and asymmetrical style. While his use of neutral colours combined with traditional SS pattern made for a laid back collection.
by Emma Walsh
by Emma Walsh
Images courtesy of Style.com