IT’S ALL about the view. The stunning view. Anyone who grew up in the UK in the 1980s will have heard of the iconic County Hall building on the South Bank of the Thames, the headquarters of London County Council, from where this great city was governed from 1922 until ‘86.
The desert does something strange to time. Afternoons stretch, silence settles and everything is tinted with soft sun-washed tones. For decades, the deserts of Greater Palm Springs have drawn people out of Los Angeles in search of a stillness that feels increasingly rare.
Inn at Death Valley
We arrive via LAX and spend a night at Hotel June West LA to recalibrate before our road trip begins. The following morning, we set out on a five-hour drive to Death Valley National Park. A stop in Ridgecrest for a sandwich at Pure Healing Foods fuels us for the journey ahead as the landscape gradually shifts into something far more elemental.
Death Valley is the hottest, driest and lowest location in North America, resulting in an extreme landscape. Here, one can explore the Mesquite sand dunes, marvel at Badwater Basin and catch a glimpse of Telescope Peak. At sunrise, Zabriskie Point reveals the desert at its most cinematic, while an off-road experience with Farabee’s Jeep Rentals & Tours offers access to more remote corners.
Death Valley
Driving through the valley, we spot this year’s wildflower bloom and Badwater Basin’s rare transformation into Lake Manly before checking in at The Ranch at Death Valley. The property has everything needed to unwind. Think: a pool, restaurant, ice cream parlour and a small museum. Nearby, The Inn at Death Valley offers a slightly more elevated stay, with some very impressive gardens.
After recharging, we continue towards Twentynine Palms, breaking up the 400-mile drive with classic Route 66 stops, including Bagdad Café, Roy’s Motel and a detour to Amboy Crater.
RESET Hotel
We then check into RESET Hotel, where time and worries melt away. Uniquely, rooms are modelled on shipping containers, creating a modular yet expertly curated layout. After settling in, we enjoy dinner at Kitchen in the Desert, where Caribbean-inspired dishes take centre stage.
In the morning, we drive through Joshua Tree National Park, stopping at Keys View for panoramic vistas across Coachella Valley and the Cholla Cactus Garden for a botanical showcase. At higher desert elevations, temperatures drop, making extra layers essential.
Joshua Tree National Park
From here, we continue to Anza-Borrego Desert State Park, where the landscape shifts again. A trip to Fonts Point is a must, offering sweeping badlands views. Flash flooding can be common, so keeping an eye on the weather is crucial. We end the day at Borrego Valley Inn, an adults-only retreat designed for total relaxation, with private patios and in-room breakfast.
Borrego Valley Inn
The next day, we stop at Red Ocotillo for a hearty breakfast before heading to Indian Wells. Passing through Indio, a stop at Shields Date Garden is essential – their date shakes are famous for a reason and reflect the valley’s long-standing role in US date production.
We then check in at Tommy Bahama Miramonte Resort & Spa, where the desert takes on a more luxurious feel. Spa Rosa is ideal for unwinding while Grapefruit Basil serves fresh, island-inspired dishes.
Mid century modern home in Palm Springs
Finally, we venture to Downtown Palm Springs to explore the city’s iconic architectural landscape with our guide, David Dixon, creative director of Modernism Week. Home to the largest concentration of mid-century modern architecture in the US, Palm Springs reveals itself in crisp angles, tactile materials and clean lines.
To conclude, there’s no shortage of things to do but the desert never feels busy. Even the fullest days unfold at an unhurried pace, softened by the desert’s relaxed rhythm. It’s precisely this balance that gives Greater Palm Springs its enduring appeal and keeps bringing us back long after we’ve left.
by Sophie Richardson