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It’s been a while since I could say “I know this little place”, but now Coal Vaults has opened, I can. The new cellar bar, from the Harley Davidson driving Simo Simpson, is a warm urban hideaway that could be anywhere in the world. The only signs of life from Wardour Street above is the glassed-over hatch where they used to throw coal down in the … err … old days. The coal has gone but the cavernous alcoves are still there, and the main area is all high tables and stools.
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Moody lights, brick, concrete, steel. It’s a masculine vibe, with staff that are kind of “hey”, “hi” friendly. It’s also a venture of brotherly love. The chef (James from A Little Bit of What You Fancy in Dalston) is a friend of a friend, Steve’s at the bar (from Royal Oak on Columbia Road) and Simo built the place himself thanks to a successful construction business. There’s an old pistol on the wall, a skeleton dressed in a “dude” t-shirt at the entrance, just because he “liked them”. Boyish it may be, but these guys are soft enough to infuse their own quince, bake their own bread and roast their own cacoa bitters.
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Cocktails are the main pull. The menu changes, but I had a Domestic Bliss – a wintery and smooth blend of rum, caraway and cinnamon. Mawar Pony is scotch, manzanilla, lapsang and ginger, and the Bolivia is vodka and espresso with those home-roasted cacoa bitters.
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The bar food is sharing plates, but they’re an odd bunch. The pulled rabbit with black beans and flatbread was a delicious pile of flavours, but logistically hard to share.
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The razor clams looked good but were chewy and fishy. The quail – awkward little bony birds to cook – was a touch dry and irritatingly needed to be eaten by hand. Roasted squash was garlicky with lovely hits of roasted almond, but a weird partner to the drinks. The Bombay chips with mango chutney and the chilli popcorn both pair well and I was so moved by the salted chocolate cake it was almost inappropriate.
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As the cold nights draw in, this will be my secret place for a drink with friends. Go while you can still say, “I know this little place”, as it won’t be a secret for much longer.
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by Vicky Paterson
Front page image by Valeria Escalona
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Dinner: Monday to Saturday 17.00 to 00.30
Lunch: Monday to Friday noon to 15.00
Tel: 020 7434 1550
Email: info@coalvaults.com
Coal Vaults 187b Wardour Street, Soho, London
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Follow Coal Vaults on twitter @coalvaults