THIS WEEK Burberry debuted their Autumn/Winter 2022 womenswear collection. The presentation took place at Central Hall Westminster in the heart of London, a perfectly suitable location for a collection that celebrates British history and explores the question – what is British culture?
Burberry writes that “contrasting city with country, pageantry with punk, it explores the concept of Britishness not as a fixed idea, embracing potential.” For over 130 years, Burberry has sat at the helm of British fashion –
moving and changing with the times.
Longstanding house motifs such as the Nova Check pattern and equestrian details are carefully sprinkled throughout the collection. The Nova Check pattern decorates pleated skirts, leather duffle bags and skintight thigh-high boots. The trench coat, a Burberry staple, is deconstructed and reconstructed to create red-carpet-ready gowns.
A strapless black jumpsuit is adorned with a western-style belt at the chest line and tiny embroidered Equestrian Knight motifs. The collection, as a whole, is more eclectic and edgy than usual for the brand. Clashing, neon polka dots cover entire garments, and sparkling crystals embellish knitwear once again in the shape of the Equestrian Knight motif.
A male model sports a charcoal coloured maxi skirt paired underneath an off-the-shoulder, shearling detailed leather jacket.
Menswear unexpectedly pushes boundaries as chest-high pleated trousers make their way down the runway. The trousers are worn with a striped button-up shirt and a mesh long sleeve tucked into them.
Tiny baby pink bows decorate a baby pink lace bustier that is layered over a match, sheer mock neck top and pleated, chiffon skirt. Baby pink, leather thigh-high boots completes the monochromatic outfit.
The presentation concludes with a black, off-the-shoulder gown entirely made out of feathers. The gown is a clone of the mustard yellow version a few looks before.
The high-quality craftsmanship and attention to detail in the Burberry AW 2022 collection is exactly what one would expect from the brand, yet the design aesthetic was a brilliant deviation from their past collections.
Burberry has long influenced British fashion culture, and it is very clear from this collection that they will continue to do so.
by Jamison Kent
All images courtesy Burberry