IT WAS the combination of rereading Françoise Sagan’s 1965 novel La Chamade to the soundtrack of Nico and The Velvet Underground that led Hedi Slimane to create Celine’s spring-summer 2025 collection.
Aptly titled Un Été Français, the designer took the story’s heroine and reinterpreted her within a new context; one that would link back to with his own documentation of London and Paris’ youth culture in 2003. Creating a modern young bourgeoise, Slimane shook off the tomboy aesthetic of the past few seasons and presented a slightly more feminine look – a bit like a lolita lost in the crowd of an indie club. Think babydoll dresses and thick eyeliner.
Presented via a film rather than the traditional runway show, the collection unravelled at Château de Compiègne; the royal residence where King Louis XVI met Marie Antoinette. Though walking the line of decadence, the collection began with the return of the “boarding school skirt suit”; a new uniform that he offered in either light cashmere or hand embroidered with the addition of a short suede coat.
Sequins graced twinsets and skirts bounced between pencil and mini. Prints remained English with the Prince of Wales check and British blossoms contrasted the muted palette of ivory, pink and black.
Though Slimane’s brilliance lies in his ready-to-wear – that quite literally flies off the shelves – SS25 also brought with it dresses made by the brand’s ateliers – bringing a new standard to RTW through these markers of couture.
Evening dresses are handmade from suspended silk and embroidered with feathers, sequins and flower crystals while architectural gowns are cut and draped in black silk faille, elevating the girl in the mini dress to the belle of the ball.
Despite Slimane’s affiliation with having a rock’n’roll touch to designing, SS25 was a far more muted offering. Headbands, kitten heels and layered necklaces were a welcomed evolution to Celine’s young femininity. Just watch out for the smashing chandeliers at the end. Of course he wanted to end on a bang!
by Imogen Clark
Watch the campaign video here: