PRESENTED in the heart of the French Riviera, creative director Virginia Viard debuted a collection for Cruise 2022/23 in honour of her predecessor and mentor, Karl Lagerfeld, with a cohesive series of looks and a repertoire of nostalgic references which captured an effortless summertime spirit.
Hosted at the Beach Hotel, from which one can see Lagerfeld’s old villa, La Vigie, models strolled along a dreamy coastline which seems to alude to the Spring 2019 ready-to-wear collection, in which a beach-like resort was created inside Paris’ Grand Palais.
Metallics and sequins were a focal point of Viard’s vision which reflected the pale blue waters of the Mediterranean Sea.
The collection has a playful energy with short-shorts and briefs shown alongside tweed jumpsuits and flowing chiffon dresses – a joyful sense of freedom and mobility was evoked by the bold colour palette and fun selection of prints – like the racing flag motif echoed on dresses and jackets a like.Â
In keeping with the racing culture synonymous with the show’s location, the racing helmet bag was a tongue-in-cheek addition which has since created a buzz on social media, particularly following a robbery at one of the Parisian stores in which a motorcycle gang stole several bags.
Recent events aside, Monaco has been a central location to the Chanel brand in which many happy moments have been lived, memory being a focal point of Viard’s references and achieved effortlessly through her design.
Black satin shoes with strass buckles referenced the pointe shoes of the Monte Carlo ballet, while white collars paid homage to the trademark look of late Lagerfeld, who had always dreamed of hosting a show at this very venue.
by Ben Sanderson