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CPHFW SS27: Baum und Pferdgarten


COPENHAGEN, DENMARK — Helle Hestehave and Rikke Baumgarten’s self-imposed task this season for Baum und Pferdgarten was to make softer, slightly protective fabrics and tailoring work for Spring. That thinking yielded a bumper crop of variations on the ideas of movement, exercise, and the ritual of rehearsals.

The first was a neutral-hued fitted suit jacket that fastened effortlessly with a single button; it came paired with matching slouchy-slim trousers. Slightly more formal was a boxy jacket in light beige with high-waisted shorts and a navy peplum belt at the waistline. But it’s still the kind of look you could swan about in comfortably and feel like the wearer who’s figured things out.

“With After the Rehearsal, we wanted to capture the quiet confidence that exists between performance and everyday life,” the creative duo opined.

Like many women designers, Hestehave and Baumgarten are as much about solutions as they are about style. Also interesting were the designers’ (literally) structured interpretations of the narrow midi silhouette that has become popular across the board. Elsewhere, relaxed sweatshirts and sweatpants finished with bows, alongside fluid shapes, gave athletic pieces an edge, lending otherwise casual garments a wear-anywhere quality.

A palette of pale blue, soft yellow, ballet pink, and washed neutrals set a cool tone. Against it, flashes of vivid red sequins landed with a sharp, self-assured confidence, full of the kind of energy that recalls the excitement of performance.

“In a time when fashion feels increasingly fast-paced, we’re drawn to designing pieces that feel personal, lasting, and genuinely wearable. As a Danish brand, balancing creativity with functionality has always been at the heart of what we do.

Looking ahead, we hope fashion continues to celebrate individuality and that Copenhagen remains a place where creativity and authenticity can thrive. Dance inspired us because it naturally combines discipline with effortless beauty. We weren’t interested in the performance itself, but in what happens afterwards—those authentic, everyday moments where elegance feels completely instinctive.”

by Chidozie Obasi

Runway images by James Cochrane

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