COPENHAGEN, DENMARK — For Spring/ Summer 2027, I A M I S I G O’s Bubu Ogisi explored ideas of cultural displacement, heritage, and the pursuit of identity. That’s not the customary designer hyperbole. The Nigerian creative has lived in Lagos, London, Accra, and Paris, yet she has sublimated this global swirl—on broader terms, continental chic with a black-tinged simplicity and an African kid’s irreverence—into a subtle but powerful fashion culture of her very own. It is one that shifts and evolves each season.
The heritage most apparent here was the designer’s own. Standout pieces comprised fabric offcuts, crochet work, billowing accessories, and intricate weaving, with details that resisted conformity and uniformity.
“Sacred Ecologies is our most politically urgent work yet. It asks what it means for a body to exist in relation to land—not romantically, but as a site of resistance,” Bubu Ogisi, the house’s Creative Director, told GLASS in a preview ahead of the Spring show. “We are building from materials sourced and worked across the continent: banana fibre from Uganda, sisal from Tanzania, recycled aluminium from Kenya, cotton from Nigeria,” she shared.
In this season’s offering, “every surface carries the evidence of hand, time, and process, because craft, for us, has never been decoration. It is a divine mystery system,” Ogisi said.
“The Zalando Visionary Prize brought us to Copenhagen Fashion Week, and we took that as a sign to decolonise spaces,” she continued with unguarded honesty. “There is a dichotomy between Denmark and West Africa; they are at such opposite poles. But these kinds of intersections happen rarely, and can be quite fruitful because of how different all the elements are. An experiment in pluriversality. To me, clothing has always been protective armour for the spirit, the self, the being inside it. A language of the body.”
by Chidozie Obasi