COPENHAGEN, DENMARK — Stine Goya’s sculptural, classic-inflected collections have been finding success at upscale retailers like Selfridges and Flannels, so it makes sense that her goal for Spring/ Summer 2027—after a two-year absence from Copenhagen Fashion Week’s calendar—was to add more ‘polish’ to her clothes.
This season’s outing leaned on Florian Illies’ narrative, depicting a time when artists, writers and thinkers found themselves in extraordinary proximity. “The SS27 Collection is in some ways grappling with not only fashion’s current climate but with humanity in general,” the creative director reflected in a preview. “The collection is titled Before, and it is based on a book I’ve been reading by Florian Illies, titled 1913,” she reflects. “It has this domineering feeling of both possibility and also the not knowing of what is coming next,” she adds.
The book touches on this incredible time when artists, writers and thinkers were constantly exchanging ideas, challenging one another, and reshaping the way they saw the world. “While reading the book, there were so many subtle and not so subtle ways that I felt like the year was mirroring where we are now,” she says.
Longtime fans will still find plenty of the elongated gowns, embroidered outlines and satin outerwear they love, but the designer updated them with lush new textures and colours this season. The biggest departure for her was an intuitive construction of a silk scarf draped together into a garment, telegraphing her practice into more mature territory.
This season also encompassed richly woven jacquards and intricate beadwork that fit nicely into her spare, artsy oeuvre, but also lent a bit of richness and warmth to her signature offerings.
“Copenhagen is a small city, but we’re fortunate to be part of an ecology of creatives both here and around the world. This creative eco-system provides a platform for the exchange of ideas and collaborative efforts,” she tells GLASS.
“I think this is in many ways the future of successful brands; we no longer live in a world where we can work in silos. I don’t think people are looking for more clothes – they’re looking for pieces that make them feel something, that stay with them, and that become part of their own story. That’s the kind of work I hope we continue to create.”
by Chidozie Obasi
Runway images by James Cochrane