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CPHFW SS27: Taus


COPENHAGEN, DENMARK — Taus’ co-founders Freyja Taus & Juho Lehiö kicked off the label’s chapter two years ago. Since then, the designers have steadily increased the brand’s creative scope, supplying everything from bodices to dresses. This time around, they dialed down their offering to a mere ten(ish) looks: a few gowns, a jacket, a couple sculpted separates.

What the collection as a whole lacked in easy wearability, it more than made up for in singularity. The tight focus here allowed the design directors to give full expression to every aspect of their clothes. The materials choice stood out the most. It featured whisper-thin lace in two contrasting shades: off-white and black. The fringed skirt, supersoft, appeared in tailoring.

The real beauty lies in their distinctive technicality. Taus and Lehiö master disguising a clever ideal in plain designs. Their lean silhouettes come from designers who pared back while preserving form. That’s a hard thing to do.

Simplicity didn’t equate to a lack of flamboyance, either. There was drama in those corsets. For instance, the sheer blousons likewise veered the collection into more eccentric terrain. The label wasn’t trying to make its aesthetics meet new friends; rather, it was trying to delight the intimates it already has.

“Our Spring Summer 2027 is a continuation of our past work, explored in new fabrications and new techniques, introducing a new sensibility to the Taus universe,” the designers told GLASS ahead of the show.

“Upcycling and dressmaking stay central, but this season we wanted to lighten it up both in silhouettes but also in fabrications. We wanted to explore the Taus universe through a lens that’s heavily focused on evening and night wear, manifesting in looks that feel red carpet appropriate but also reference for example underwear archetypes. We are also collaborating with Pandora as our jewellery partner, with three bespoke looks we have crafted featuring Pandora surplus jewellery as well as within the collection’s styling.”

The focus was heavily on the bespoke selection, including the red-carpet looks as well as wedding attire. “We craft all our garments in our Copenhagen studio. Bespoke is something we are focusing on because it feels true to us and our way of working. It allows us to craft unique pieces from upcycled materials”. Mission very much accomplished.

by Chidozie Obasi

All photographs by James Cochrane

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