FIRST comes a faint sound of a few drops. Seconds later, I am being swallowed by a wall of water arriving in full force, almost biblical rain, leaving us completely drenched. From drifting slowly in silence and darkness through tangled mangroves in our kayaks, we are suddenly in the middle of Laguna Grande – its waters blurring with the sky thanks to the pouring rain. This very lagoon is one of only five places in the world where it is possible to see bioluminescence all year round. As I move my hand through the water, I can’t take my eyes off the tiny eruptions of greenish light surrounding us in the kayak, and I wonder how Puerto Rico can hold so much amazing nature.
The common misconception about Puerto Rico, which I shared before my visit, is that its most interesting parts are the pastel façades of Old San Juan, where tourists enjoy luxury hotels, sandy beaches with perfect rows of sun loungers, and the comfort of Western food. Yet, not very far lies a landscape of striking contrasts, where rainforest gives way to quiet surf towns sitting alongside untamed stretches of coastline, inviting visitors to trade polished perfection for something wilder and more real.
The Serene House
Our car winds through the dense forest, each bend seemingly indistinguishable from the last, yet our driver navigates them effortlessly, clearly remembering the route by heart. The hills rise steeply on either side and, as I roll down the window, the loud signature sound of coquí- a Puerto Rican native frog- fills the air. We’re staying at The Serene House in Luquillo, an adults-only boutique bed and breakfast perched on the edge of El Yunque National Forest. Its location strikes the perfect balance between a rainforest hideaway and coastal escape, with hiking trails in one direction and the beach in the other.
Inside, ceiling fans turn lazily overhead while an open-plan dining room spills out towards a saltwater pool shimmering in the afternoon light. Our host, Pablo, gives us a tour and explains that we can expect a delicious breakfast every morning, all prepared by him using an abundance of fresh fruit and vegetables.
The Serene House
Casita at The Serene House
Although a handful of guest rooms sit within the main house, we’re lucky to be staying in one of the standalone casitas tucked further up the hillside. From my private terrace, I can see the rainforest stretching endlessly before giving way to a sliver of ocean on the horizon. A woven hammock hangs in the shade, gently swaying in the warm breeze, and with that in sight, I question any plans I might have made for this evening.
The view of the rainforest
The most surprising fact about Puerto Rico, I learn, is its lack of native predators. As I glance distrustfully towards the deep woods just a few steps from my front door, Pablo assures me this really is a paradise and even the Puerto Rican boa, a fairly large and intimidating-looking snake, isn’t able to kill a human. I breathe out a sigh of relief, my body finally relaxing at the knowledge that nothing is about to appear from the bushes.
Despite its proximity to San Juan’s airport, Luquillo has managed to retain a distinctly local feel. Best known for its golden beaches and its gateway position to El Yunque, the town is also home to Los Kioskos de Luquillo – a lively strip of more than 60 independent food stalls and restaurants lining the coast. We wander through watching families gather over seafood pinchos, couples share plates of mofongo – Puerto Rico’s beloved mashed plantain dish, filled with everything from lobster to slow-cooked pork, the sounds of music drifting through the warm evening air.
Fresh dishes at Sama
Dinner takes us to Sama, one of Luquillo’s most sought-after restaurants, where reservations are essential and hopeful walk-ins linger outside waiting for a last-minute cancellation. The menu draws on Puerto Rican and wider Latin American influences, with seafood being the focus.
Bright, citrusy yellowfin tuna arrives dressed in leche de tigre, the Peruvian marinade that brings sharp acidity and gentle heat, while a whole butterflied branzino is served fresh with lemon and capers, corn fritters and a bowl of crisp seasonal vegetables on the side. Coconut mussels are another standout, alongside a daily specials board dictated entirely by that morning’s catch – a reminder of how fresh every plate arrives.
As we leave, a large table erupts into applause as a familiar reggaeton star blows out birthday candles. It feels fitting that one of the island’s own has chosen to celebrate here; if the waiting list outside wasn’t enough, this certainly proves it’s a place worth visiting.
The following morning, we set off for Rincón on Puerto Rico’s west coast, a three-hour drive that reveals an entirely different side of the island. Every person we share our plans with repeats the same sentence: “There is no place like Rincón.” Their certainty heightens my anticipation of a place where, they promise, the sunsets are something else and time moves at its own pace.
Gradually, the motorway gives way to narrower roads, before dissolving into winding lanes shaded by dense tropical trees. Small wooden houses peek through tangled gardens, weathered pickup trucks carry surfboards strapped to their roofs, and roadside fruit stalls appear without warning. Everything feels significantly slower here. No one seems to be rushing anywhere, unless it’s in pursuit of the perfect wave.
View of Casa Isleña
Our base is Casa Isleña, a boutique beachfront hotel where the ocean is right at our doorstep, quite literally. The rooms are simple and minimal, the floor-to-ceiling windows inviting the views of the turquoise water in. We watch the waves gently hitting the sand from our spacious balcony, whilst downstairs guests sip cocktails beneath the palm trees as musicians prepare their guitars ahead of the evening’s live performance.
Sunset at Casa Isleña
To discover different corners of the coastline, we spend the day with the local guide Mariel from Mariex Adventures. Her warm presence is magnetic from the moment she steps out of her colourful van, and her excitement is infectious. As we drive through the twisting roads, she shares stories of Puerto Rico’s native inhabitants: the Taíno people, the island’s complex history and the fierce pride islanders have in their home. And as we ask about Bad Bunny, she laughs, saying the west coast is his refuge and shows us the very spot where he joins the locals for a game of dominoes.
Our first stop is Crash Boat Beach near Aguadilla, where families set up for the day beneath brightly coloured umbrellas, competing sound systems blast reggaeton and children jump fearlessly into bright blue waters from the old military pier – now covered in colourful graffiti. The atmosphere is impossible to resist, and before we know it we’re dancing in the queue for freshly grilled prawn skewers and ice-cold piña coladas, swept up in all the joy of the popular beach.
Just a short drive away, Playa Montones in Isabela surprises us with its entirely different character. Sheltered by natural rock formations that create calm turquoise pools, it feels quieter and more intimate. Tiny pastel-coloured homes sit calmly on the shore, opening onto a stretch of beach where the only soundtrack is the gentle wash of the tide – I can see why people escape the bustling towns for a piece of quiet here. With a lack of commercial development, this slice of the island feels untouched, showing a different side to the Caribbean adventure.
Playa Montones
To explore the beach from a different point of view, we join a horse-riding tour with Tropical Trail Rides, where we travel across the almond forests and finally reach the shore. My horse Trixy is a calm girl who loves to stop by every time her eyes lay on a tasty looking bush, but as soon as her hooves touch the sand she’s visibly ecstatic, hoping to pick up the pace as we trot along. The beach is so secluded there is only us and we have a private view of the gentle waves and sun slowly fading away.
We finish our evening on the main square In Rincón, both hungry after the day of discoveries. Here, it feels easy to believe that time is just a social construct, and I can see why people from all over the world are drawn to the small beach-side town. As we devour plates of tacos and ceviche, drinking a beer from a local brewery, Rincón Beer Company, we watch the life in front of us: surfers trading boards for beers and older men playing cards, greeting every person who passes by their name, the community spirit I can only dream about in a big city.
I end my trip understanding that Puerto Rico is a place of contrasts. From San Juan’s colonial architecture to the brightly lit chaos of the kioskos; the silence of Playa Montones against Crash Boat’s loudly playing speakers, or a five-star tasting menu one night exchanged for a paper plate of pinchos the next day. Its beauty lies in the diversity of experiences it has to offer, but its most precious places require a little bit more searching.
The easiest way to find them? Talking to Puerto Ricans, who speak loudly about the love for their island, celebrating it by eagerly sharing their most cherished parts with the ones they trust. And that is the island’s quiet trick – the places most worth finding are never the ones announcing themselves; you just have to be willing to get caught in the rain to see them.
by Olga Petrusewicz
For more information about Puerto Rico, please visit www.discoverpuertorico.com
For booking a room at The Serene House, please visit www.theserenehouse.com (casita rates start at $304 depending on the season)
For booking a room at Casa Isleña, please visit www.casaislena.com (rates start at $204 depending on the season)