HIDDEN below the newly opened fine-dining modern Indian restaurant Tresind, Tryst is Mayfair’s new best-kept secret. Echoing the same motto, the speakeasy shines light on Indian-inspired cocktails, putting spins on familiar recipes and introducing completely new flavours to the London scene.
Dark, atmospheric and deliberately stripped back, the interior does what every speakeasy should – draws you in to linger for the evening rather than just a quick drink. Rust-toned walls, plush banquette seating and atmospheric low light create an intimate setting where secret conversations and gossip are encouraged.
At its heart sits a striking bar – natural stone contrasted with a brushed metal countertop; tall stools on one side are an ideal place to watch bartenders do their magic, crafting meticulous cocktails right in front of your eyes – a performance it’s hard to turn away from.
Guava. Photograph: Jodi Hinds
Hearing about Marina Juszczyk leading the drinks programme at Tryst makes me instantly more intrigued to see the menu. Previously head bartender at SOMA, one of the most atmospheric speakeasies in Soho, I do not doubt that the magic she applied to her drinks follows her wherever her new venture is.
The cocktail menu takes me on a journey across India, with every drink celebrating ingredients from each region. Konkan showcases kokum, a deeply tart fruit native to India’s western coast. Balanced with toasted coconut, fino sherry, apricot and Chopin’s vodka (a lovely Polish note there too), it all transforms into an elegantly dry highball, served in a tall glass as thin as paper.
Banana old-fashioned. Photograph: Jodi Hinds
Salcete is Tryst’s playful take on a Margarita, where the sweetness of guava meets the richness of Don Julio 1942 tequila, before chilli and pink pepper arrive with a delicate spicy kick on the finish.
Yet my winner is Kolkata, which transports me to West Bengal. Centred on Gondhoraj – described as “the king of lemons” – its intensely fragrant character is blended with two varieties of lime to create a perfectly balanced mix – bright and delicately sour. An ideal choice for anyone, like me, who favours dry, spirit-forward drinks over more full-bodied recipes, and a definite go to for summer days.
Amritsar. Photograph: Jodi Hinds
When venturing upstairs for a full meal doesn’t appeal, the snack menu is a useful alternative – just enough to keep you from abandoning your seat. Delicately charred chicken skewers and a portion of poppadoms make an ideal duo for taking the edge off the looming evening hunger.
With the summer slowly fading away, I can imagine Tryst being an ideal place to hide and forget about the outside world. Cocooned in the warmth of the interiors and softened by the buzz of the cocktails, I foresee the space filling up quickly. The kind of place you struggle to peel yourself away from.
by Olga Petrusewicz
To book visit www.tresind.co.uk
13-14 Hanover Street, London, W1S 1YH, United Kingdom