REMEMBERED as a pioneer of the Modern Movement in architecture and furniture, Irish-born designer Eileen Gray became the perfect source of inspiration for Gabriela Hearst‘s AW23 menswear collection. Recalibrating her focal point this season to emphasise precision and lines, emulating the same meticulous approach to design like Gray, tailoring is at the core of each look.
Focusing on silhouette, cut’s are thought-through, like single-breasted suit jackets with relaxed shoulders paired with fuller trousers in bright colours, made from repurposed superfine wool, or speckled cashmere.
Adding a contemporary touch to AW22, leather carcoats fuse the rigour of leather craftsmanship on the exterior with the playful nature of repurposed wool on the interior and notably, puffer shirts arrive in wool silk suiting and are quilted with recycled nylon at their core – echoing a similar fascination to contrasting materials as Gray did.
Wide shoulders are found again in topcoats, bomber jackets are showcased in cashmere boucle and overshirts are fused with a hood lined with silk, all coming together to present a picture for AW23 that simplicity in design is key, but material choice is king.
by Imogen ClarkÂ