DURING Milan Fashion Week, the Glass team spoke to Tomas Maier, creative director of Bottega Veneta, about his SS18 collection and his journey within the fashion industry. As the Italian brand becomes increasingly playful with colours and is now seen to  cast some of the hottest, most-diverse models in the world right now, we came to understand Maier’s vision of the label looking towards the future. Ever since Tom Ford appointed Maier as creative director in 2001, the designer has grown with the brand and kept it on-top of its game.
During our exclusive conversation with the holder of the fashion house’s decisions, Maier explained how within the ever-evolving nature of today’s society he is able to keep his collections classic but still ever-appealing.
What was the general direction of this collection?
Lots of happiness. Beautiful colours, very comfortable. Nice fabrics. And sometimes things are a little bit tough for all of us. So I think we need something to get us going in the morning. Â
The collection felt a bit tougher with the grommets and a little younger than it has in the past. Was that intentional?
Sure. We obviously always embrace the younger customer and new customers. We do have a lot of younger customers. Even if you look at places like China, our customer base is very young. So I am very happy about that. And yes. I like that all the kids are from different places in the world.
The casting was amazing.
I like bringing together kids from all across the world. Because they are all special and beautiful in their own way. It is so nice to be able to do that.
Bottega Venetta SS18 Runway
I want to ask you how did the choice of the venue reflect the mood of the collection?
I came to see this venue and I thought it was special, about a year ago. But it was it in use. However I decided to settle on it because there is a big story to it. For the collection, there is a lot of daylight, those colours. I like how open it is. So this was the perfect venue.
I wanted to ask about the pattern looking like a stained-glass window. How did you come upon this idea? How difficult was it to achieve that in a jacket and shoes?
I came about the idea for this design in-house. We draw the pattern in-house, and then the pattern gets produced elsewhere. I draw it, and then it gets redrawn into the shape. It is very narrow. On the jacket you get the most place to showcase all the colours and how the look will come together.
Did you have a pattern for it?
No, I just wanted to show off the colours together in the different pieces.
Bottega Veneta SS18 Runway
How important are the materials for your designs?
Very important – I have always embraced different materials. For examples, we have just talked about the jacket, and this jacket has silk in the inside, so a silk lining. This has no weight. This is what I like. I like to use a variety of fabrics. It is important how you use the materials.
You talk about the importance of the production process. Will any of the home items be more affordable?
The general runway is more like laboratory process. So it is very labour intensive. This collection will always be expensive because of that. Three collections, three processes. We will try to really think about the price.
I think time is challenging for all industries, so what do you think is the main challenge for the fashion industry at the moment?
Nobody needs anything. We all have enough clothes. If you want me to open my wallet; if you want me to make a purchase; then it needs to be really really special. It needs to be something that is really out there, and unique. I think, for us, that is our challenge.
Creating products that are cheaper, but are also very special. Need to think about what people want for us, something that is special and not generic.
How do you adapt to the new methods of communication when it comes to the branding in the digital era? Has that changed your way of communicating?
Sure. More and more people are engaged. More and more important. Especially if you want to talk to younger people, especially in the way you are communicating.
Bottega Veneta SS18 Runway
Do you think the combined shows have changed your design process for the better?
I don’t think that much has changed. Because we always looked at the collections at the same time, so have always worked on stuff simultaneously. And we look back at it several times in the season. So they are worked on together and ideas are shared. Products should look good together in the store together, they should work together. I like to work on collections together, and show them together, because there is a lot of cross over. From research in mens into womens, and the same the other way around.
How far has your approach and your collection changed from your early days?
It has obviously evolved. Everything moves and moves all the time. It has not changed that much. We are all influenced by the world, what is going on around us, and people who we meet and work with. It is not a constant move.
Sustainability is becoming a buzzword in the industry. How achievable do you see it is in the luxury world? Is it something that you see as important?
I think it is very important for us. Am I supposed to buy this without any guarantee that it is clean? No, that is not okay. True luxury comes from visibility. You should be able to place it as a priority. It is commonsense. It is understood, it is expected. So it is a priority for us, on every level.
Bottega Veneta SS18 Runway
by Caroline Simpson
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