Haute Couture AW20: Maison Margiela

AN ICONOCLASTIC label, Maison Margiela is famed for its avant-garde aesthetic and enigmatic approach to fashion. With sustainable and ethical fashion on its agenda, the French fashion house has amassed a legion of loyal clients in recent years.

Remaining true to his trademark Recicla philosophy, creative director John Galliano is actively working towards creating eco-friendly couture, and this is exactly what we anticipate will figure in Margiela’s Autumn/Winter 2020 Haute Couture collection.

Today the eponymous label revealed the first digital instalment of its Artisanal Co-ed Collection for AW20, which will conclude in a final revelation on July 16.

The short film by Nick Knight stars Leon Dame – the sensational 22-year-old model who first appeared on Margiela’s runway last autumn when he stomped down in a black faux leather utility jacket and knee-high black patent boots. While Dame won’t be hypnotising any of Galliano’s spectators this season, he still gets to strut down the runway in his signature style – this time accompanied by an ominous soundtrack, which successfully builds suspense.

It looks like Margiela will continue its efforts to widen discourses around gender fluidity, in addition to pushing the boundaries of modern fashion. “Invigorated by an air of transparency, creative director John Galliano will gradually uncover a new proposal for the house in a manifestation of clarity, interaction and inclusion,” commented Margiela.

by Rhiannon Jenkins