A NEW handroll sushi bar has landed in Soho. Kumori, which opened in late April, is the latest venture from Head Chef John Randy De Guzman, of Tobi Masa fame, serving a concise menu of handrolls, sashimi and sides from behind a 30-seat counter.
The emphasis is firmly on quality ingredients. Rolls are assembled to order and handed straight across the counter to be eaten immediately, while the seaweed is still crisp. Standouts include torched salmon, foie gras and eel, miso aubergine and baked spicy crab wrapped in delicate soy paper instead of nori.
Kumori
The seaweed and cucumber salad is exactly what you want between the richer dishes, while Akami tuna dressed in wafu sauce brings a welcome hit of sharpness. The cocktail list is equally playful, featuring Yuzu Margaritas, Yamanashi Grape Gimlets and more, while the wine list is thoughtfully put together.
Kumori
A moment for the interiors. Custom-made Big Ears speakers sit behind the counter, playing house music throughout the evening at a (thankfully) reasonable volume. Pink backlighting washes over the open kitchen, while a flowing white fabric installation softens the space, giving it more of a late-night bar feel than a traditional sushi restaurant.
At Kumori, the pace is fast, and you’ll likely be back out on Soho’s streets within the hour. If you’re looking for quality sushi and a lively starting point for a night in Soho, Kumori is one to put on your list.
by Vicky Morrison
26 Denman St, London W1D 7HX