“TODAY, it’s not about size or gender, it’s about identity.” With a push for inclusivity and diversity, Roland Mouret is one of the many who join the likes of Simone Rocha and Osman to orchestrate a collection for all shapes, sizes and genders. As the industry moves towards a more all-embracing attitude, it begs the question: is it overdue?
A wide and expansive collection, Mouret made sure there was something for everyone, whether that be dresses and coats fluid like gender, bold colour combinations of baby blue and scarlet red, or perhaps a simple all-black set? (Dog not included, unfortunately.) Although a womenswear collection, the designer blurs boundaries with the inclusion of male models, a step in the correct direction for inclusivity – breaking barriers to disincentivise labels.
A bold geometric cube print was a standout recurrence. Eye-catching, complicated and deep, the print was transferred onto the canvas of a maxi coat, a maxi coat made for those who want to be seen and not forgotten. Heavy, enveloping shaggy coats left us craving winter so we too can look as warm and comfortable as the model. Although it is claimed that red and green should never be seen (together), Mouret leaves us with the not so subtle suggestion that they belong together … and we could not agree more. Olive green slacks with a plunging red ruffle-trimmed blouse underneath a speckled boucle blazer – a winning combination.
Mouret’s resolve to create a more contemporary and relevant collection has led him to the size range of UK8 to UK20, thus encouraging and seeking a movement away from the fetishised and idealised size 0 society has seemed to conformed to perceive as the standard of beauty. The designer’s criticism is clear to see: we are quick to judge who should or should not be wearing what. In doing so, we have lost the essence of beauty and our acceptance of it, opting more to obsess over unrealistic expectations and portrayals.
The clothes are not oversized, they are representative of the range of sizes being made available. Natural and easy, relaxed wide leg pants, tunics and sashaying trench coats, these are pieces made to be worn and feel comfortable in. A full array of colours stretching from sharp bright tones to fleshy, natural hues, Roland Mouret inspires with his ability to create for everyone.
Roland Mouret brings us a collection to celebrate women in all their glory, to make them feel like the triumphs they are, despite what the industry makes you believe.
by Robyn Ngan