CANADIAN-BRITISH designer Edeline Lee has just presented her spring-summer 2024 collection, titled Future Lady, in a storefront on Old Burlington Street. Having launched her eponymous label in 2014 after graduating from Central Saint Martins, Lee has become well known for her feminine, intricate designs.
Presenting her latest collection in a manner reminiscent of various art installations, the designer further heightens the luxurious, sophisticated aesthetic of her own creations. With a large window separating the attendees from the models, the runway presentation took on a theatrical, cultivated identity.
The models became actors within the glass encasement, all playing the same character of Lee’s envisioned Future Lady.
“I wanted to build a habitat of Future ladies, to showcase their dynamism, vitality and strength, to be observed and admired behind glass. I wanted to enshrine the energy and drive of women, to create a homage to our determination and courage. The Future Lady is sophisticated and aesthetically considered on the outside, but inside she is intentional, electric and strong, constantly pushing herself forward, picking herself up,” explained the designer.
Poised and presented with the female gaze in mind, the models appeared as a frenzy of colour – constant movement, overlapping and variation demonstrated Lee’s fixation on the restless, frantic way of life that many women in contemporary society lead.
Speaking on the phenomenon Lee states: “Female identity is in flux in our generation: modern women live hectic, collaged lives. We can’t automatically subscribe to the possible identities that have been laid out for us historically.
Women now are more beautiful, more powerful, more free, stronger, more aware, more capable than any other time in history.”
Having dressed prestigious figures including Olivia Colman, Sally Hawkins, Gemma Chan, Phoebe Waller-bridge, Helen Mirren, Taylor Swift and more, it’s clear that Lee’s philosophy resonates with her target demographic.
The designer’s SS24 offering exhibits fluid, dynamic silhouettes in a range of jewel-toned colours ranging from fuchsia, turquoise, lapis and royal blue to ivory, gold and lime.
Metallic, sequinned gowns are presented alongside structural, utilitarian jackets and tailored shorts – a further demonstration of Lee’s versatility.
The house’s signature silhouettes have evolved time and time again, now appearing in various different fabrics and colour-blocking finishes. Accented with delicate hand-covered buttons and golden hardware details, the pieces take on a prestigious allure.
With careful draping, cinching and contouring, evening dresses remain practical yet elegant – ideal for the assiduous Modern Lady.
Showcasing garments constructed with adaptability and functionality in mind, Lee effortlessly exemplifies her cutting-edge, conceptual design codes.
by Sophie Richardson